French Braised Leeks with Dijon Vinaigrette
by Susan Spicer with Paula Disbrowe
from Crescent City Cooking
(Alfred A. Knopf, 2007)
Makes 4 servings

I have always loved leeks, but now they have a particularly romantic context in my life. The first time I met my (then future) husband, Chip, he cooked chicken with leeks, a dish that knocked me out. (I guess I should mention that he worked as a professional chef in New Orleans for ten years.) He blanched the leeks, so they were bright green and pliable, then wrapped them around a stuffed chicken breast. It was the most beautiful, seductive presentation. Since then, every time I cook with leeks I think of that dish — and him.

Leeks have an interesting, subtle flavor that suggests asparagus or salsify (a root vegetable). A lot of Americans don't know how to use them, and they tend to be pricey. But this simple bistro presentation shows that they are worth the splurge. This is the most basic French preparation for leeks, and one of the most delicious. It's also the recipe that sold me on them forever.

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Make the leeks
1. Cut the root end off the leeks, as well as the dark green stem end, leaving just the white and light green portion. Split them lengthwise and remove the outer two layers. Wash thoroughly under running water, being careful to rinse between layers to remove any grit. Shake off the excess water.

2. Rub the bottom of a large, heavy-bottomed skillet with the softened butter, then lay the leeks, cut side down, in the pan. They should fit snugly in one layer across the pan. Pour the wine and chicken stock over the leeks, sprinkle with salt and a little pepper, then cover with waxed paper or parchment (which will keep the tops of the leeks moist), and bring the liquid to a boil.

3. Reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer over low heat for about 15 minutes. Use a small spatula or tongs to turn the leeks once, halfway through the cooking process. When cooked, the leeks should be completely tender and not stringy. Turn them over once more, so the outer layers are facing up. To test doneness, I usually just peel off one or two outer layers, the last to get cooked, and sample them (if they are the least bit tough, cook for another 5 minutes).

4. Remove the pan from the heat, and cool. If there are more than 2 tablespoons of juices left in the pan, remove the leeks to a serving platter and reduce the juices to 2 tablespoons. Reserve the juices for the Dijon Vinaigrette

5. Pour the dressing over the leeks and let sit for at least 10 minutes. These leeks are wonderful served warm or cold, but I like them best at room temperature.

Make the vinaigrette
1. Whisk together the shallot, mustard, vinegar, and pan juices in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil, then season with salt and pepper.

 

[Leanne Abe] I loved these leeks! I could have eaten the whole dish by myself, that's how good they were. The leeks ended up buttery soft and tender and the reduced chicken stock/wine just made them taste heavenly. I almost didn't want the vinaigrette. Speaking of which, I felt I had too much vinaigrette for the leeks...too much sauce and you lose the subtle deliciousness of the leeks themselves. This has to be the easiest vegetable braise with the best results.

[Juli Seaman] I would give this recipe a "10." It was exceptionally easy to make and the results were fabulous. Great side dish — we had it with lamb shanks and polenta and couldn't have been happier. I wouldn't change a thing in the recipe.

[Julie Chang-Creekmore] These leeks were delicious: meltingly tender and full flavored. I loved their silky texture and mild, sweet onion taste. The slight tanginess of the vinaigrette was a perfect complement.

[Mary Fletcher] For me, this recipe shows how to showcase leeks. The only thing I would do differently is use larger leeks, but that's a personal preference. Everything tasted so clean; I could have eaten 50 leeks. I am going to use this recipe at my next dinner party. Its beauty is in its simplicity. I also roasted asparagus the day I made this, and the Dijon vinaigrette complemented that also. I can't wait to have it again. This is a recipe I'll also use in my family dinner planning. My kids loved it, too.

[Duane DeMello] Wonderfully simple and quick to prepare, outstanding in taste, this classic recipe for French braised leeks is a surefire winner. The cooking time was right on the mark, resulting in a very tender and subtle-tasting underrated vegetable. The Dijon vinaigrette provided the spark with its mustardy tartness accented by the fresh taste of the shallots. Last fall, I had this same dish in Lyon, France, and it tasted just as good as this one.

[Claudia Lebish] This was so very delicious and gorgeous. I'm filing this away as my new favorite way to make leeks. We ate the braised leeks at room temperature, and the flavors of the mustard and shallots fit perfectly with the leeks. It seemed that much more butter was used to braise the leeks than was actually in the recipe. What I appreciated about this recipe is that it's quite forgiving. If your timing is a bit off with the main dish or other sides, the leeks will be waiting graciously there and be just as tasty; that alone makes it a perfect side. We served them with chicken piccata, but this would also be excellent with pork chops or roast chicken.

[Linda Linden] Delicious, comforting, lovely leeks! I love leeks but have never made them this way before. It's an easy recipe, and when the leeks were cooked they became so sweet and tender. The Dijon vinaigrette was just the right balance for the cooked leeks. Even my husband, who does not particularly care for vegetables, loved them. I served the leeks at room temperature with a roast chicken — a perfect combination.