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Trinchado |
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Some people request recipes, others demand them, but those who wrote me about Trinchado pined for it. Many of them had recently been to South Africa on vacation and wanted to recapture the taste of this spicy beef dish. I'll admit I was flummoxed. I had never heard of it. So I poured through my resources but came up empty-handed. Eventually, I came across an Internet message posted by Patrick Fish. One look at the recipe and it was clear that I had to post it. As is common with peasant food, the origin of such a dish is hard to verify. Patrick believes it's popular in South Africa because of the Portuguese immigration from nearby Angola and Mozambique. To the best of Patrick's knowledge, the dish is traditionally served with a heap of chips, a.k.a. French fries. (When I asked him if this was a holdover from colonial days, he replied no.) He went on to point out that the Portuguese serve trinchado with chips at their own cafés (small delicatessens) throughout the country. I still have my doubts whether this is a British influence, but it's delicious either way. Trinchado is meant to be spicy. But be extremely careful when preparing the hot peppers: Wear rubber gloves if you have sensitive skin and don't touch your face or eyes. When finished, wash your hands thoroughly with hot, soapy water. |
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1. Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Add the butter and oil. Once the butter is melted and sizzling, add the beef cubes in 4 or 5 batches and brown well on all sides. Don't crowd the pan or rush this step; this is what gives the dish its flavor. Remove the cubes with a slotted spoon to a warm plate and set aside. 2. Lower the heat to medium, add the onions, chile peppers and their seeds, and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for an additional minute. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir until the flour's fully cooked, about 2 minutes. 3. Pour in the stock and red wine (or brandy). Stir until the sauce thickens a bit, about 3 minutes. Add the bay leaf, olives, browned beef cubes and any juices that may have accumulated on the plate. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours. Check every 15 minutes or so until the meat is very tender. Season with salt and pepper. 5. To serve, place the Trinchado in a large bowl and top with with French fries. Have lots of bread on hand for dunking.
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Reviews As for the South African connection, my theory is Portuguese-style cooking became popular here several years ago. As Patrick Fish so rightly says, we have many immigrants from Mozambique and Angola now living here, and it stands to reason that some have started Portuguese-style restaurants. With many South Africans having visited Mozambique, I'm sure many remember this dish as well as I do, and have requested it at local Portuguese restaurants. Anyway, a few friends and I have been making this type of dish for many years to serve at parties with drinks before the main meal. I've made it with chicken necks, gizzards, and livers, but the most popular version is beef. I use chuck, brisket, or whatever is cheap at the time, and cut it into small 1/4- 1/2-inch cubes, discarding the fat and sinew but retaining the bones to add body to the sauce. I also use more onions and garlic than your recipe suggests, as well as the addition of finely diced green peppers and, occasionally, potatoes cut into small cubes for bulk. As I use the tougher cuts, I use a bit more wine or sherry to soften the meat. The sauce must be coating thickness to cling to the bread roll, and the consistency is adjusted with corn flour before serving. Everything else appears almost exactly the same as in your rendition, with the exception of the olives — I'll try that next time. Having said that, I do agree that the French fries are
not authentic, although they were popular in the holiday resorts of Mozambique
that foreigners frequented, and are still readily available today in the
few remaining places worth visiting. I therefore concur that French fries
are most likely a colonial/tourist-requested addition. I also used whisky instead of brandy in your recipe, and this was great. Also you can have the meal with the Mozambique favourite tipple — Catembe. This is rough red wine topped with Coke. Wonderful stuff. Cheers. Chris Day, Johannesburg, South Africa.
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