ach spring, the unassuming pea takes on heroic proportions. Come late April, chefs and home cooks who are weary of improvising with squashes and root vegetables rush the stalls at farmers markets in Southern California to stock up on the bright-green harbinger of the new season. And armed with bag loads of fresh peas, these cooks churn out terrines, flans, risottos, and soups by the tableful.

"People eat with their eyes," says Josie Le Balch, chef and owner of Josie restaurant in Santa Monica. "And when they see all that green, it just feels like spring." It's practically a Pavlovian response.

Le Balch recommends that the savvy cook should look for three thing when buying fresh peas: appearance, feel, and taste. "The color should be bright green," she says. "And the skin should be supple with round, plump bumps underneath." But it all comes down to taste. And you can't judge that without slitting open a pod and popping a few peas in your mouth. They should be sweet without a hint of bitterness or starchiness, which indicates they're over the hill.

Timeliness is crucial when it comes to cooking with fresh peas. The last thing you want to do is shop for peas on Wednesday for dinner on Saturday, Le Balch says. For the best flavor, prepare the peas the same day you buy them.

"And make sure you don't overcook them," she emphasizes. "They'll be a darker, muddier color, and that's the last thing you want for soup."

Chefs have long been divided as to whether spring pea soup, which is thinner than the husky split-pea soups of winter months, should be served hot or cold. Let the thermometer be your guide. "I like to serve fresh pea soup warm for dinner and cold for lunch," comments Le Balch. She also offers a novel way of enjoying the soup if you're hosting a large party: "Fill shot glasses with cold soup and pass them out." These pea shooters make an easy way for your guests to enjoy a hit of spring. Plus there are no spoons to clean.

One thing that everyone agrees upon is that the pairing of pork and peas is a natural. But instead of the traditional heavy ham hocks found in the split-pea version, try using pancetta, or Italian bacon. Diced and quickly sautéed, the bits of crisp pancetta serve as a garnish on top, while the rendered fat is used to cook and season the other vegetables in the soup.

For an even greener experience, add a spiral of freshly made chive oil to spike the dish with a sharp onion-y layer that rounds out the soup's mellow flavor. For body, what else? A dollop of smooth crème fraîche whipped with an excellent imported white pepper. Our favorite is from the Republic of Cameroon.

All things considered, the tiny pea is truly the season's green giant.

Recipe
Spring Pea Soup with Chive Oil and Peppered Crème Fraîche