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1940-49

< back The nation had barely enough time to catch its breath from the hardships of the Great Depression before we were catapulted headlong into the horrors of World War II. Almost overnight a great migration of humanity was under way, with men marching off to Europe and the South Pacific, and women marching out of kitchens and into factories.

Many American homes lost their household help too. "Before the war there was a servant or two in many homes — now suddenly there wasn't," says Bronz. Standing patriotically side by side in factories across the country were hostesses and their former maids or cooks. "The war effectively democratized the nation," she adds.

And in its democratization every family had to ration its food. The government restricted each American to 28 ounces of meat per week (overkill by today's standard), plus limited the amounts of sugar, butter, milk, cheese, eggs and coffee permitted. As a result sales of convenience and prepared foods increased. "This is when margarine came in as a replacement for butter," interjects Barnard.

"The government encouraged Americans to plant Victory Gardens," says Ray. "The vegetables from these tiny plots of land, or sometimes larger cooperatives tended to by several families, helped to fill out compromised dinners." Reflecting the times, women's magazines of the day featured recipes for fresh vegetables, while the vegetable sections of popular cookbooks fattened.

"Americans didn't mind the sacrifices," says Kraig, "because it was a great patriotic effort."

By 1948 the war was over and our thriftiness was rewarded by the beguiling Chiffon Cake. Originally dreamed up in the late '20s by insurance salesman, Henry Baker, the cake grabbed the attention of diners at The Brown Derby restaurants, for whom he was now baking. As buzz spread of this delicious, airy cake, Baker was plied with requests and offers for his closely guarded recipe. It wasn't until General Mills bought it in 1947 that the secret ingredient, vegetable oil, was revealed. In no time the cake made its way into nearly every kitchen as a sweet counterpoint to almost 20 years of deprivation and sorrow. more >

Recipe
Chiffon Cake With Lemon Icing

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