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Aphrodisiacs have been — at least until the advent of modern drugs like Viagra — folk medicine. Folk medicines can be divided into two basic categories: weird stuff that we take as potions and stuff (bizarre or otherwise) that we eat. For our purposes, let's ignore all but the remedies we eat, either as regular fare or on special occasions.

That said, there are some foods that contain compounds that may actually aid sexual performance — albeit somewhat indirectly. They work by providing vitamins and minerals needed to maintain normal bodily function. Since they're not exactly titillating, we'll ignore them too.

What we're looking for are those foods that work as aphrodisiacs — either because of some intrinsic biochemical characteristic or of some kind of placebo effect.

Yohimbe, a tropical vine, is said to work like a natural Viagra — but it's closer to potion than foodstuff, so not what we're seeking here. Chocolate contains substances that mimic the sensation of the well-being we feel when falling in love, but again it's not exactly an aphrodisiac. Alcohol reduces inhibitions and makes one feel heated by dilating blood vessels near our skin — which tends to make us shed clothing — both of which could be construed as encouraging sexual intimacy. As Ogden Nash said, "Candy is dandy, but liquor is quicker."

The famous Spanish Fly (Lytta vesicatoria) was not really an aphrodisiac — it was a kind of blister beetle that caused a burning itching sensation in the urinary tract of anyone unfortunate enough to eat one. No doubt the painful writhing of the victim was mistaken for passion. The brilliant green beetle is sometimes found in the Moroccan spice mixture called Ras el Hanout — but the Moroccans don't always make a clear distinction between spice, perfume, and aphrodisiac.

If there is a physical resemblance between a food and the sexual organs, it's suspected to have aphrodisiacal properties. This form of analogous thought is known as The Doctrine of Signatures. While oysters contain trace minerals said to enhance sexual performance, it's their resemblance to the vulva, their briny taste, and their reputation that does the work. Many foods are shaped like male sex organs (carrots, cucumbers, bananas, etc.)and are routinely considered to be aphrodisiacs. Cloves, and parts of the clove root, are vaguely phallic in form. Because of the level of joyful expectation, or immoderate optimism — depending on one's vantage point — even a vague resemblance is resemblance enough.

Similarly, there is what may be called The Linguistic Rationale. Clavo, clove in Spanish, means "nail." Nails are phallic, both in form and function. It's no coincidence that an American slang term for sexual conquest is the verb "to nail." (Oddly enough, oil of clove is used in some salves designed to delay the male orgasm. It does this by anesthetizing the skin of the penis.)

Closely related is what may be called The Assumptive Method. The user of certain foods assumes, or benefits from, the characteristics of the animal or plant. A large juicy steak is assumed to confer the lusty attributes of a bull. Likewise, the randiness of rabbits and goats is said to be assumable by eating their flesh.

Ultimately, though, aphrodisiacs are not to be found in our foods but in our "sweet little imaginations." The Moroccans may have the right idea, after all: Anything that arouses our senses, arouses us. So, bring on the spices and perfumes! While aphrodisiacal foods may not work literally, serving up oysters and chocolate to a potential lover this Valentine's Day sends the message that we want them to work, which may be all the aphrodisiac we need.
 
References
Ackerman, Diane. A Natural History of the Senses. New York: Vintage, 1990.

Davidson, Alan. The Oxford Companion to Food. New York: Oxford University Press, 1999.